Almaty then on to Kyrgzstan

Friday 26th August
Overnight rain for the first time for weeks, therefore tents were put away wet (although we were staying for 2 nights we put them away for security purposes).  Much cooler today and most of us wore long trousers for the first time for weeks.  The rain eased in the morning, before it became hot in the afternoon – showers returned in the late afternoon. 

Took 2 local buses to Almaty in the morning (which took a total of 90 minutes including walking to the first bus stop).  WiFi was very scarce and therefore we all tried to catch up what we could at Internet cafe’s.  After lunch we walked around the shops before returning to the bush camp. 






Saw another wedding celebration on the way back. 

We raised the Truck canopy for the first time this holiday – it took 8/10 people to erect it. 










Megan has a problem with a wisdom tooth trying to emerge.  She went to a dentist in Almarty then sent her to the General Hospital and having  taken an x-ray they performed a small operation to cut the gum and supplied her with 4 medicines. 
Saturday 27th August (into Kyrgzstan)
The day did not start well as one of the groups who stayed in the hotel got a taxi to bring them to the National Park to meet the Truck went initially to the wrong National Park and therefore were over an hour late joining up with us.  We then made our way to the main border crossing (approx. 250 km) and we got through in about 90 mins. getting through the border relatively easily.  We met up with our guide for Kyrgzstan (Mike) and we then made the short journey to the capital (Bishkek). 

Will found a small homestay with a dorm for 10 plus a yert for 3 and the others camped in the small garden.  Facilities were limited (2 toilets  and 1 shower), but we did have laundry facilities. 
In the evening most of us found a sports bar where we hoped to watch the rugby, but it was only available on a small laptop.   We had an interesting journey back to the homestay – 6 in a single taxi – not knowing exactly where we were going!! and we got back just before midnight.  

Into Kazakhstan

Drove to Tashkent on the 19th before going to the border on the 20th.   The guest house in Tashkent was not large enough to accommodate all of us, so 3 couples moved to a B&B belonging to the local agent.  Even for those left some had to sleep on mattresses on floors.  Explored the local Bazaar in the afternoon.    Tashkent was a disappointment after all the other cities and towns we have visited – perhaps it was the fact we were not in the centre or the poor guest house or just because I was feeling poorly from a tummy upset (I was not alone!

The border crossing took nearly 4 hrs to negotiate and we managed to change all our currency on the Kazakhstan side using a number of unofficial money changers.  We were stopped for speeding before we got to the border, but were let off with a warning.  After a few hours drive we made a bush camp in a straw field.  I should have been on cook duty tonight but was let off my duties due to my tummy upset.





The Chinese have changed to dates we can enter China and we are also having to change our route as the road we were going to use is “closed” for road works.  We now entering China on 6th September and existing on 30th September.  This means we will not take the truck to Everest base camp, but it is possible to hire 4 wheel vehicles as an alternative, but this will involve additional cost.    We will now have to head for North China before heading south to Tibet rather than follow the line of the Himalayas. 
Sunday 21st August

Moved further into Kazakhstan and we got stuck in Sunday market traffic chaos (mainly a farmers market with lots of livestock and hay).   Some of the animal welfare was dubious – we saw 2 live sheep being put into the boot of a saloon car and the boot slammed shut!

We stopped at Turkistan to visit the famous mausoleum and also have some Sunday lunch (kebabs in my case).  Even allowing for the 1 hr time change at the border the temperature seems to get hotter later in the day here. 








After lunch we returned along the same road until we made a bush camp at an isolated spot in the desert. 
Roadworks 

We seem to attract road works on this amazing journey – especially in the “Stans”.  These can easily go on for 100 km when all the traffic uses a original road (which in places are badly broken up) while the new carriageway is being built to the side of the new road.  There seems to be a never ending supply of road works.  
Monday 21st August (Frustrating day)

Drove from the bush camp back to Shymkent so that we could change some money and get some food for the next 2 days.  In addition it was hoped to register all our passports with the police.  We arrived at the outskirts (near a market) at 09:30 and hoped to leave at 12:00 – see the butchers display (complete with sheep heads), however when Lu, Will and Johnnie took the passports into the city centre it was not possible to complete the registration until after 16:00.   The day was complete when a very dirty, smelly tramp decided to sit on the same bench as some of us.  We then left as planned towards the Aksu-Jabagly Nature Reserve.  We briefly looked over the Reserve offices then made a bush camp outside the village.  The plan for the next day was to allow approx. 10 of the group to go an accompanied walk in the Reserve while the others planned a chill out day. 
Tuesday 23rd August
About 10 took the accompanied walk in the Nature Reserve while the rest of us stayed with the truck and did a good truck clean and then some hand laundry and showers in the solar shower (or the nearby stream).  A car arrived during the truck clean and came over and tried to make conversation and asked for either water or alcohol before they left after pinching a bottle of water.  In the afternoon we tried to keep in the shade as the sun was very hot while waiting for walkers to return. 
Wednesday 24th August

Long slow drive day as we made our way across Kazakhstan – we only covered about 300/350 km due to the bad roads and constant road repairs.  We did have a short stretch on the new road, but it was only 1 to 2 km.  We made 3 stops including one to take on water at a Petrol Station – we all made some small purchases in the shop under the gaze of a pump action gun wielding guard!     . 
We made bush camp near a line of trees on a plateau. 




Thursday 25th August

Made better time to Almaty today (approx 325 km) and the roads were a big improvement over recent days.  Originally we were going to get a hotel/hostel for a couple of nights, but Will decided to change this to 2 days of bush camping in a nature reserve in the hills on the edge of the city.  However 8 of the group decided to book into a city hotel for the 2 nights while the rest of us made our way to the bush camp.  On the way we were stopped for another road security check (we have been subject to these throughout the “Stans”, but this one took 10/15 mins. and he needed some persuasion before letting us continue.

    

The sunset at Bush camp was another special sight. 

Samarkand (18th August)

After breakfast (pancakes, cheese, fried eggs, bread & jam) in the Kamila Hotel spent the morning walking around the Mosques and Mausoleums around Ruhabad Street and on into Registan Street and Square.  New drainage channels were being laid in the main road from the hotel to the centre (Bahbed Yuli Street). 
This city is very different from the last 2 in Uzbekistan with wide open green spaces and larger mosques more widely spaced out.  The modern shops in Registan Square are close to the more traditional small side shops.  See the photo album for further photos). 
Walked onto the Bazaar we walked to yesterday and got my problem sandal repaired by a street shoe repair man. 

Back at the hotel and just going to spend the afternoon around the small pool.  Dinner is arranged this evening at the hotel. 

Bukhara

Spent the morning (before it got too hot) exploring Bukhara. Breakfast was a simple affair with bread, fruit, biscuits, melon, cheese and something similar to porridge – no egg or jam which we have had before. Laundry sorted out and used the local internet cafe.









a number of Mosques and Madrassas as well as finding the market which had a really good selection of shops as well as an excellent new indoor market with separate sections for cheese, bread, vegetables etc.

From about 11:00 it became too hot to do anything other than flop 

The worst road (so far) 15th August

Left Khiva at 08:00. We soon met the desert and the road works as we headed to Bukhara. The total distance was approx 450 km, but about 100 km was very slow and extremely bumpy with us using the broken up original road while a new road was being build to the side.









Stopped for police checks a couple of times. Made 2 other stops, first for water etc. and the second for lunch (after the road works) and we arrived at Bukhara in the early evening.

The hotel is again centrally located and the rooms are generally an improvement over the hotel in Khiva. Only time to have a brief look around the surrounding area and eat.











Truck Cluedo update. Will killed Megan at today’s lunch stop by giving her a chair near the chair area. Another one bites the dust – not many left now!

Wedding and a Funeral at Khiva (Sunday 14th August–start of Week 8)

What a city – although a popular tourist trap it was a real living museum.  The city is a world away from Ashgabat in Turkmenistan although we are very close to the border here and can see the desert of Turkmenistan from the roofs. 

Big market in the morning which Norman, Lyn and I explored. Lots of stalls and so much to see.  Saw a funeral while walking around – heard all sorts of wailing from a building where all the women were expressing their loss, then the covered coffin appeared and was placed on a large mat.  We were all ushered out of the way and we didn’t intrude any further. 

 

Norman then went to the barbers for a No 3 haircut and came out with a slightly shorter version.  
Lunch in a local outdoor restaurant – seemed strange to be eating  a salad out of doors, drinking cold tea and in baking heat on a Sunday.

 
Saw the celebrations of a local wedding before buying a combination museum ticket and explored the museums – including climbing a tower for some panoramic views over the city.  This is the third place where I have photographed weddings they just seem to follow me around. 

Had picture taken with a fellow tourist - her friends & family wanted her to be pictured with a foreigner (although she doesn't look too happy). 

















I managed to take about 80 pictures alone in Khiva – it is so photogenic – every where you turn you can take another shot.  (apologies if the Uzbekistan library is a little big and we have got Tashkent and Samarkand to come). 




Tomorrow we move on to Bakara so it will be another long drive day.  

Saturday 13th August

+++

Early start this morning (06:00 departure) and then a long drive towards the border.  Stopped at a famous historic Turkmenistan site to see the mausoleum and minaret (Tallest in the world in the 14^th century). If we wanted to take photos or video there was a fee to be paid.   Lunch stop in the nearby town including looking around the local bazaar. 

Got to the border at 13:30 and our guide managed to get us to the front of the queue.  On the Uzbeckistan side we had all our bags inspected (especially for medicines and drugs) and had to complete a declaration form in duplicate. In all it took just over 3 hrs to get through the border. 

  

 

We met with our Uzbekistan guide before starting the 4 hr drive to Khive arriving after dark.  The truck had difficulty negotiating the very tight old town to get to the hotel.  During the drive we had to negotiate a long pontoon bridge (we walked over it separately from the truck) and we were not allowed to take photographs. 

 


Truck Cluedo update.  Over the last few days there have been 3 more murders – Lena has killed Phil with a book and also Terry with the disinfectant bottle.  Then today Glen killed Norman by handing him a fork in the truck – now down to 6 or 7 people still alive.

Friday 12th August

Lazy morning in the hotel before we departed at 14:00. The road soon changed to semi arid and then desert conditions as we travelled north.   We went off road to find the gas craters, but as it was now nearly sunset we made camp in the Desert.  A few walked to the Gas craters, but most stayed by the truck area.